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Niacinamide

Niacinamide in skincare: Barrier support, pigment control, sebum control. What it does on skin, how strong the evidence behind the claim actually is, the concentrations in normal use, who reacts to it, and where it stands in pregnancy and sunlight. On a label it appears as Niacinamide.

Pigment and brighteningBarrier support, pigment control, sebum controlEvidence: Moderate

On the label: Niacinamide. Also called: Nicotinamide, vitamin B3 amide.

This is an ingredient reference, not a diagnosis and not a treatment plan. It describes what substances are and what the published evidence supports; it does not tell you what your skin has or what to put on it. A rash that spreads, hurts, weeps, does not settle, or comes with feeling unwell is a reason to see a doctor or pharmacist, not to change serum.

What it is

The amide form of vitamin B3 and the precursor of the cell coenzymes NAD and NADP, which sit at the centre of cellular energy handling and repair. It is water-soluble, stable across a wide pH range, cheap and almost odourless, which is why it turns up in so many products — it is one of the easiest useful actives to formulate with.

What it does on skin

It increases the skin's own production of ceramides and free fatty acids, which is the barrier itself, so water loss falls and the skin becomes less reactive. It slows the transfer of pigment packets from pigment cells to surface cells, which fades uneven tone over months. At higher concentrations it reduces sebum output. And it damps inflammation, which is why it appears in both acne and rosacea products.

What the evidence is worth

Evidence: Moderate

Moderate and unusually consistent for a cosmetic ingredient: several small controlled studies support the barrier and pigment effects, and it is one of the few actives that reliably does something without a tolerability cost. The sebum and pore-size claims rest on weaker work. Its real advantage is that it is the ingredient most likely to help and least likely to cause a problem.

How it is used

Once or twice daily, morning or evening, in a serum or moisturiser at 2-5%. Ten per cent products exist and are not more effective for most people; they are simply more likely to sting. It layers under sunscreen and makeup without pilling, and it is the sensible first active for someone whose skin is already irritated.

Typical concentration in normal use: 2-5%, up to 10% in high-strength products. That is a description of the market, not a recommendation, and it is not a dose.

Who reacts to it

Very well tolerated. A minority flush or sting, mostly at 10%, and a fair share of reported reactions turn out to be the acid, fragrance or preservative in the same bottle. If a niacinamide product stings, try a lower concentration in a simpler base before writing the ingredient off.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

Generally considered fine

Topical niacinamide is not a pregnancy concern and it is a common substitute when retinoids are stopped, particularly for the darkening of the skin that pregnancy itself can bring.

Sunlight

No change

Not photosensitising, and it can be used morning and evening. It is often paired with sunscreen for pigmentation, where sun exposure is the driver and the niacinamide is only useful if the exposure is controlled.

Rules and labelling

Not restricted in cosmetics. Note that oral nicotinamide has been studied in dermatology clinics for people at high risk of repeated skin cancers, which is a clinical decision made with a dermatologist and has nothing to do with the serum on your shelf.

What it goes with, and what it does not

Pairs well with almost everything: retinoids, acids, vitamin C, sunscreen, and especially with a moisturiser, since a good part of its benefit is barrier repair. It is the standard ingredient to add when a routine is working but is a little too harsh.

One thing people get wrong

The myth is the flushing. Niacin — nicotinic acid — causes the well-known hot red flush at supplement doses. Niacinamide is a different molecule and does not, which is exactly why cosmetics use the amide. The second myth is that it cannot be used with vitamin C; the two are combined in commercial products routinely and the conflict story comes from a laboratory condition your bathroom does not reproduce.

The nutrition side

Skin is fed from the inside as well as treated from the outside, and the two are far less interchangeable than either industry suggests. The relevant page on this site: Supplements: what the evidence supports.

Sources: EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and its annexes, as published in the European Commission's CosIng database, for every statement about what is permitted, restricted or banned · opinions of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and safety assessments of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) for the concentration positions · standard dermatology reference material for mechanism, tolerability and contact-allergy patterns · checked 2026-09-06. Deep links are deliberately omitted where a stable public URL could not be confirmed.

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